Finally, the money and time have presented themselves and I can continue the build-out of a new studio in the a basement room of a residential home.
You may review the previous blog of 4-2013
“Build out a Mixing/Recording Room – Part 1”
The owner has some specific concerns. Particularly in that “ I don’t want to hear anyone above me and I don’t want them to hear me” meaning, the rest of the family. Kind of a tall order given the fact that there is not much floor to ceiling height in this space. It is much easier to make his wishes happen when the space has a ceiling height of 10 or more feet. This space is 7′ 9”, that’s it. Bummer! Oh and did I mention, the budget is very tight. Ah!, the music business.
In deciding the best, most economical way to achieve the issue of sound transmittal between the basement room and the family room I have found that attaching drywall to the underside of the floor works pretty well. The addition of “Green Glue” works even better. As you can see in the following image there is space between the floor/ceiling joists that can be worked on.
I cut strips of 5/8” drywall of 8 foot lengths to fit in between the joists, spreading Green Glue on the drywall prior to screwing to underside of the floor. The whole idea of Green Glue in a nutshell is that by putting a layer of GG between two surfaces, the energy of noise whether its acoustical or impact is converted to heat and spread sideways to keep the energy from passing through to the other space.
Go here for info on what GG is:
One important thing about GG is that it takes awhile, time wise, to reach its full transmission stopping properties. There have been reports that as much as 3-4 months have gone by till you get the full benefits of GG.
You also need to chalk any gaps in the drywall/GG application.
Use an acoustical sealant. Not any ole’ chalk.
You will also notice that there is HVAC duct work in the joist space that supplies conditioned air to the family room above this space. Another hurdle to overcome. Arrrg! This has to be dealt with as sound easily comes thru the duct work and vice versa. The best way to resolve this issue is to take down the duct work and wrap it with VERY expensive acoustical blocking material. Not going to happen.
So, next best way is to wrap the duct with a rubberized membrane that will cut down on the transmission and ringing of the sound. Still, pretty expensive. However, I found an automotive product designed for automobile interiors that will work just great for 1/3 of the cost. Ebay saves the day again!
This also needs to be done with any water waste pipes in the area.
The next step is the addition of insulation stuffed between the joists. This helps even more to cut down on sound transmission by absorbing the higher frequencies. Do not “pack” it in. It needs to be relatively loose. Do not let it extend past the bottom of the joist.
The final step in the ceiling/floor issue will be to “float” the ceiling. I will discuss that in a later blog after the walls go up.
A great resource is: http://www.tmsoundproofing.com
Walls are just about all up.